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    <title>The Rogue Gourmet: The Online Notebook of a Wyoming Foodie</title>
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      <title>Columbus &amp; The Humble Chile - A Meditation  </title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2010/1/23/columbus-and-the-humble-chile-a-meditation/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=484</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p><em>Originally posted on Chileifre.com <span class="Date">10/5/2007</span></em></p>
<p><em>The chile, it seems to me, is one of the few foods that has its  own  god.<br /> &mdash; Diana Kennedy</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/7412/6431/8800/4461_web.jpg" alt="4461_web.jpg" width="275" height="433" /><br /> <em><a href="#images">See   image notes below</a></em></p>
<p>Cooking is one   of my great pleasures. I enjoy nothing more than   creating food that enlivens   the palate, invokes strength of flavor,   and speaks of refined textures and  seductive and sensuous aromas.   Spices, herbs and aromatics                                       are to  me like pigments to a painter - to be mixed in  an endless variety of  alchemical                    compounds, elixirs, and infusions.</p>
<p>But spices, herbs and aromatics go beyond the pleasures of the   palate. Historically, in early trade, spices often took the place of   currency, they have played important roles in the healing arts, adding   properties to medicines, bringing  scent to perfume and used to enhance  our seductive qualites.</p>
<p>The flavors brought by these botanicals also become synonymous with   location - certain foods evoke immediate recongnition of where they   originate, and the mythologies and imagination we associate with with   these faraway places. Spice has for much of history traveled where we as   individuals could not, or have not. I have never been to Shanghai, but   if I close my eyes I can vividly imagine salty caramelized roasted  pork  sticky with a sweet plum, soy and start anise, served from a  street  vendor surrounded by wafts of fragrant smoke. Cuisine is, in my  mind,  just as much a medium for expressing culture as is art,  literature or  music.</p>
<p>Wavery Root suggests that, "every country possess, it seems, the   sort of cuisine it deserves, which is to say the sort of cuisine it is   appreciative enough to want". American cuisine, unlike our current   political climate, is incredibly welcoming and diverse in it's   acceptance of foreign tastes; at once the result of our diverse   population, and a growing acceptance of foreign flavors and cooking   techniques. Americans prize our diverse culinary traditions even when we   might not welcome those who introduce them - a fact that I have a very   hard time accepting in this time of war and distrust. Anglo America -   that culture of the "Founding Fathers" was not what America has become -   Our fore bearers preached austerity, blandness and economic   practicality at the expense of indulgence and taste. It was over and   over again in this country that the lower economic classes and   immigrants introduced  Americans to the flavors of the world outside   it's borders; new and rich flavors which America has thrown, with more   relish into it's famous "melting pot" than it ever has any other the   cultural products introduced by the "huddled masses yearning to breathe   free".</p>
<p>Spices, herbs and aromatics, it seems, travel more freely than   those  who have mastered their use</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/6412/6431/8816/4460_web.jpg" alt="4460_web.jpg" width="275" height="444" /><br /><em><a href="#images">See  image notes below</a></em></p>
<p>When I started Chilefire in 2005 I selected the name - to speak to   the topic of spice, for exactly that reason. Chiles are an unusual   cultural spice in many ways, chiles apparent universal appeal, the   fruits wholehearted integration into virtually every cuisine on the   planet is in some ways unique. Smithsonian researchers report that   across the Americas,  chile peppers were cultivated and traded as early   as  <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/02/070215144334.htm">6,000   years ago</a> and likely were consumed by the native people in the <a href="http://www.livescience.com/history/070215_hot_find.html">Ecuadorian   rainforests</a> even earlier than that.</p>
<p>Recently plant remains which include corn, squash, beans, avocados   and chile peppers, were recovered from two caves in southern Mexico and   analyzed by a  Smithsonian ethnobotanist/archaeologist and a colleague.   their finding indicate that  as early as 1,500 years ago,  Pre-Columbian  inhabitants of the region  enjoyed a spicy fare very  similar to Mexican  cuisine today. The two caves  yielded 10 different  cultivated varieties  of chile peppers &ldquo;What was interesting to me was  that we were able to  determine that  they were using the peppers both  dried and fresh,&rdquo; Perry  said. (Chilies  broken while fresh had a  recognizable breakage  pattern.) &ldquo;It shows us  that ancient Mexican food  was very much like  today. They would have  used fresh peppers in  salsas or in immediate  preparation, and they  would have used the dried  peppers to toss into  stews or to grind up  into sauces like moles.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Today, chiles have managed to integrate themselves into the diet  and  cuisine of very nearly every continent on the planet. I have been  told  by a colleague at National Geographic that cultivated chiles have  been  found being grown by "un-contacted" tribes deep in the Congo, proof  to  the contrary that these remote tribes are truly un-contacted, as   ultimately this spice had its heredity in the equally deep jungles of   ancient Ecuador.</p>
<p>That Famous European, Columbus,  brought chile peppers in several   forms back to Europe; from there, Portuguese traders  spread them along   the coasts of present-day Africa, India, Asia, China,  the Middle East,   Central Europe and Italy. Areas which already consumed  a diet rich in   highly spiced foods &mdash; such as present-day Asia and India &mdash;  very  quickly  incorporated chile peppers into their local cuisines; so   quickly, in  fact, that until the 1900s chile peppers were widely   believed to be  indigenous to Asia and India &mdash; they were not.</p>
<p>So on this Columbus day I thought it worth a meditation on the   history of the chile, this skilled culinary ambassador, who was set upon   the world by another whose legacy is both celebrated and despised.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p><a name="images"></a><em>These chili peppers from the Guila Naquitz cave in Oaxaca  Mexico  date to between A.D. 490 and 780, and represent two cultivars or   cultivated types. A Smithsonian scientist analyzed the chili pepper   remains and determined that Pre-Columbian inhabitants of the region   hundreds of years ago enjoyed a spicy fare similar to Mexican cuisine   today.</em></p>
<p>Credit: Linda Perry, Smithsonian Institution</p>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:36:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>Diamonds of The Desert - Medjool Dates</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2010/1/23/diamonds-of-the-desert-medjool-dates/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=468</guid>
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<td>There are very few desert foods that are as universally loved as fresh  Medjool dates. I used to consider dates as little more than another  barely edible dried fruit  added to American Christmas  cakes, which I  don't care for much.  I didn't really appreciate them fully until in the  summer of 1987 on a road trip with a small group of high school friends  I was forced to pull into a roadside farm market on route 86, 50 or so  miles north of the Mexican border with an overheating engine.
<p>The market was associated with a date ranch that we had been  driving by - unnoticed as our attention was focused on the wavering  engine heat indicator which was only being kept from a boil over by our  willingness to run the heater all out on this 104&deg;  day.</p>
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<div><a title="Date-Chutney 035 by River Rats, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/riverrats/2368327174/"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3154/2368327174_ba50c01057.jpg" border="0" alt="Date-Chutney   035" width="333" height="500" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><em>Once   reserved exclusively for Moroccan royalty and their most important   guests, Medjool dates were considered a precious confection and for many   remain so today.</em></div>
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<p>We pulled into the market to give the car some time to cool off,  while we wandered down the market aisles and pondered the idea of a  "Date Shake". The heat may have helped me decide that day to go ahead  and order that five or six dollar date shake, and I remember well  waiting in anticipation as the girl with the long brown hair put it  together, three or four scoops of french vanilla ice cream, a good sized  scoop of a date paste (I was later to learn it was Medjool date paste)  and a splash of milk. I imagine now the buzz of the burr inside the  frosted stainless shake cup, before she half poured, half scooped my  date shake, now a rich carmel brown into a paper cup.</p>
<p>It was even more thick and smooth than I'd anticipated, with chewy  bits of date skin and an intense carmel and honey flavor. The cold made  the pieces of date in the shake chewier, somehow even more satisfying  as they softened under my bite - I was quite literally smitten with this  first real taste of fresh dates, and before I left the market I had  spent twenty five dollars on soft, fat Medjool dates, some wrapped like  truffles in thin colored foil, others pressed together in transparent  plastic cartons.</p>
<p>Our road trip sent us north - away from the fertile date  plantations of the south, so there were to be no further forays into  date shakes on that trip, and before we made it home - the dates I had  purchased, even the fancy foil wrapped delicacies, were long since gone;  eaten around fires at campsites, or warmed on the dashboard with  morning coffee in San Luis Obispo.</p>
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<div><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/2412/6429/2439/date-seller.jpg" alt="date-seller.jpg" width="333" height="250" /></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><em>Date seller   in the old souq in Kuwait City, surrounded by dates from Kuwait, Iran,   Saudi Arabia and elsewhere. <br />Image credit: Trammell Hudson</em></div>
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<p class="A"><strong>A Thousand Uses</strong></p>
<p class="bodyc">The origin of the date palm is lost in  antiquity.  Dates have been a staple food of the Middle East for thousands of years.  They are believed to have originated in the Persian Gulf area, and have  been cultivated for thousands of years in the Middle East. Known  cultivation range from Mesopotamia to prehistoric Egypt. There is  archaeological evidence of date cultivation in eastern Arabia in 6000  BC. Dates and date cultivation gave a means of existence to thousands of  people. It was said to offer man a thousand uses including thread,   needles, baskets, lumber, mattresses, rope, numerous other household   items and an integral part of their diet.</p>
<p>In culinary terms dates are equally versatile and Medjool dates are  particularly wonderful,  deep  amber to almost red in color, with a  slightly wrinkled skin. The flesh of the fruit is immensely satisfying,  sticky and thick, they are rich with flavors of wild honey, carmel, and  cinnamon. Cooled they are slightly harder to the tooth, warmed they are  like some decadent pastry, almost cloying in their sweetness.</p>
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<div><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/8312/6429/2480/date-palm.jpg" alt="date-palm.jpg" width="333" height="485" /></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><em>Dates hang   from the crown on a date palm.<br /> Image Credit: Stan Shebs</em></div>
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<p>Dates, while wonderful by themselves (and in shakes) are used in a  huge variety of culinary preparations. While commonly eaten out-of hand  dates are also stoned, or pitted and stuffed with a variety of fillings,  such as almonds, walnuts, candied orange and lemon peel, marzipan or  cream cheese. Dates are used as an additive in beer and fermented into  wine. Dates are also chopped and used in a wide range of sweet and  savoury dishes, from tagines in Moroccan dishes to traditional puddings,  bread, cakes and other dessert items</p>
<p>In today's recipe I offer a wonderful (and spicy) smoky date  chutney. Dates make a wonderful base for many chutneys adding a thick  body and great base sweetness. Many date based chutneys work well with  yogurt, and are wonderful with eggplant and pork dishes.</p>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 16:12:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>A High Altitude Summer Crawfish Boil</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2008/6/18/a-high-altitude-summer-crawfish-boil/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=453</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <div>
<p class="bodyc">Spring in Laramie, Wyoming is fickle at best ~ and by the second snow in June it can seem downright elusive. This year, our first in Laramie, winter has seemed particularly dogged in it's cling to our thin air, but in the last 10 days, daytime warmth and the sudden greening of the plains seems to be announcing that summer has at last arrived.</p>
<p class="bodyc">This year we marked Summer twice. Our first attempt, a "Summer Barbecue" over Memorial day weekend was well attended and ended a great success, never mind the wintry chill and icy rain with which it was accompanied. Ultimately the event was hardly the warm outdoor picnic we had all hoped for.</p>
<p class="bodyc" style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/3812/6412/9033/crawfish-3.jpg" alt="crawfish-3.jpg" width="430" height="287" /></p>
<p class="bodyc">No, it was going to be yet another 10 days, before we would really mark Summer properly. Naomi and I gathered some good friends, crossed our fingers and, took the folks at <a href="http://www.cajungrocer.com/">CajunGrocer.com</a> up on an awesome offer, 10 pounds of live Crawfish shipped overnight and delivered to our doorstep.</p>
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<div><span class="A"><a title="Spring Crawfish Boil by River Rats, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/riverrats/2568433213/"><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/5812/6412/9117/crawfish-1.jpg" alt="crawfish-1.jpg" width="430" height="287" /></a></span></div>
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<div>Spicy boiled crawfish, smoked sausage and steaming corn, I can't think of a better way of welcoming summer.</div>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 18 Jun 2008 18:21:00 -0700</pubDate>
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      <title>America Discovers Curry Laksa</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2008/5/22/america-discovers-curry-laksa/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=461</guid>
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<p class="bodyc">Curry Laksa is perhaps one of the most incredible  soups that I have ever had. Laksa though now available world over is&nbsp;  originally of Peranakan or Nonya origin. Nonya cuisine combines Chinese,  Malay and other influences to create a truly unique, and wonderful  mosaic of flavors, and it is my opinion that Nonya cuisine's incredible  potential can be fully realized in a bowl of fragrant curry laksa.</p>
<p class="bodyc">The result of a masterful blending of Chinese ingredients  and wok cooking techniques with the aromatic and sometimes fierce  spices of the Malay community, Nonya recipes are tangy, aromatic, spicy  and herbal. Key ingredients in Nonya cooking include coconut milk,  galangal (a rhizome similar to ginger), candlenuts which are used as  both a flavoring and thickening agent (and it might be noted poisonous  uncooked), laksa leaf, a dried fermented shrimp cake called belacan,  tamarind juice, turmeric, lemongrass,  ginger bud, jicama,  kaffir lime  leaf, rice  noodles (rice stick) and cincaluk - a pungently flavored,  sour and salty shrimp-based condiment that that is typically mixed with  lime juice, chiles and shallots and eaten with rice.</p>
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<td class="A" valign="top"><a title="Curry  Laksa by River Rats, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/riverrats/358989372/"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/137/358989372_b6626df3ae.jpg" border="0" alt="Curry Laksa" width="375" height="500" /></a></td>
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<div><em>The curry  laksa soup base is stock, coconut milk and a generous but measured  amount of laksa paste - a spice paste thickened with candlenuts, which  must be boiled well before being eaten.</em></div>
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<p class="bodyc">Peranakan or Nonya cuisine, and curry laksa haven't  really be discovered in United States until recently. Laksa has begun to  sporadically appear on The Food Network, the Travel Channel and other  foodie programs and networks. Laksa made it's most recent appearance on  last nights episode (episode 11) of Top Chef on Bravo, with a shrimp  laksa made by one of the contestants. Bourdain, after announcing that he  "took his laksa seriously"&nbsp; judged the entry to be too smoky for his  taste. Interestingly, it might be noted that Bourdain presumably had his  first laksa two seasons back on his traveling foodie show "No  Reservations".</p>
<p class="bodyc">I discovered laksa on a trip to visit family in  Australia several years ago, where the soup has become as familiar part  of the Australian diet, as Vietnamese Pho has in big city America. After  my initial introduction I returned with  with several recipes for the  soup - most notably a recipe from "Spice" by Christine Mansfield, the  chef and founder of Paramount restaurant in Sydney. The recipe below is  closely based on the Paramount recipe, changed mostly to accommodate for  difficulty in finding Nonya ingredients in American groceries. The last  time I made up a batch of the paste I ended up driving for 6 hours to  an Asian super center in Denver for several of the ingredients.</p>
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<td class="A" valign="top"><a title="Chicken  Laksa - 14 by River Rats, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/riverrats/358993087/"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/126/358993087_88e770159c.jpg" border="0" alt="Chicken Laksa - 14" width="375" height="500" /></a></td>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><em>I serve my  Laksa piles high with bean sprouts, laksa leaves (sometimes Vietnamese corriander, or Thai Basil) and fried  shallots. I find that the aromatics and texture of these toppings make  the soup a wonderful meal in a bowl.</em></div>
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<p class="bodyc" align="left">Laksa defines two  different types of  noodle soup dishes: <em>curry laksa</em> and <em>assam laksa</em>. Curry  laksa refers to noodles served in coconut curry soup, while assam laksa  refers to noodles served in sour fish soup, and nearly endless  variations exist under the two core types. My preference is the curry  variation, the Assam variations that I have had are very similar to Thai  Tom Yum, though a bit less spicy, and while the soup is great it isn't  as rich and fully satisfying as the curry version.</p>
<p class="bodyc" align="left">Wikipedia lists three main variants of  Curry Laksa:</p>
<ul>
<li class="bodyc">Laksa lemak, also known as nyonya laksa (Malay:  Laksa nyonya), is a type of laksa with a rich coconut gravy. Lemak is a  culinary description in the Malay language which specifically refers to  the presence of coconut milk which adds a distinctive richness to a  dish. As the name implies, it is made with a rich, slightly sweet and  strongly spiced coconut gravy. Laksa lemak is usually made with a  fish-based gravy and is heavily influenced by Thai laksa (Malay: Laksa  Thai), perhaps to the point that one could say they are one and the  same. </li>
<li class="bodyc">Katong laksa (Malay: Laksa Katong) is a variant of  laksa lemak from the Katong area of Singapore. In Katong laksa, the  noodles are normally cut up into smaller pieces so that the entire dish  can be eaten with a spoon alone (that is, without chopsticks or a fork).  Katong laksa is a strong contender for the heavily competed title of  Singapore's national dish. </li>
<li class="bodyc">Sarawak laksa (Malay: Laksa Sarawak) comes from the  town of Kuching in the Malaysian state Sarawak, on the island of Borneo.  It is actually very different from the curry laksa as the soup contains  no curry in its ingredient at all. It has a base of Sambal belacan,  sour tamarind, garlic, galangal, lemon grass and coconut milk, topped  with omelette strips, chicken strips, prawns, fresh coriander and  optionally lime. Ingredients such as bean sprouts, (sliced) fried tofu  or other seafood are not traditional but are sometimes added.</li>
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      <pubDate>Thu, 22 May 2008 15:34:00 -0700</pubDate>
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      <title>Experiments Smoking Salt: Part II</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2008/3/31/experiments-smoking-salt-part-ii/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=483</guid>
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<div><a title="Mesquite Smoked Salt by River Rats, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/riverrats/2375236791/"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2286/2375236791_a43b22f6a4.jpg" border="0" alt="Mesquite  Smoked Salt" width="333" height="500" /></a></div>
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<div><em>Fresh from  the smoker, my latest batch of mesquite smoked salt crystals. The color  of good smoked salt should be as rich as the aroma and flavor it  provides, ranging from a light amber to a dark pitch, almost black  color.</em></div>
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<p>Almost two years ago <a title="Experiments Smoking in Salt" href="/index.php/blog/2006/4/6/experiments-smoking-in-salt/">I  wrote up an article </a>on a series of experiments I was doing smoking  salt. At the time I promised a follow up article posting my results in a  "couple of weeks". Clearly it has taken me longer to get here than a  couple of weeks, but I didn't want to post on the subject again until I  sorted out some of the details and techniques and had a chance to do  some research.</p>
<p>The art of salt smoking has prompted more inquiries than any other  subject I have posted on Chilefire.com - I have received emails from  both professionals interested in  marketing their own smoked salt and  amateur home smokers interested in  making up a batch after having  tasted the unique salt, all looking for a web resource on the topic. So,  after experimenting for over a year and making up a few batches of   really great salts, as well as a few total failures I thought it worth   starting up the <a title="Smoking Salt" href="/index.php/recipes/methods-and-techniques/smoking-salt/">Salt  Smoking Discussion Forum </a></p>
<p class="RecipeTitle"><strong>What I Have Learned - The Basics:</strong></p>
<p>There are six basic recommendations I have for the first time salt  smoker outlined below. if you follow these basics you should have decent  luck making up some great salts.</p>
<p><strong>1. Use Long Smoke Times </strong><br /> Smoking salt take time, salt doesn't absorb the smoke - or cook and  react in the warm environment the same way meats will. Salt  absorbs  flavor as the smokes resins coats the grains, and this take some time.  In my experience, depending on the coarseness of the grain, salt needs  at least 4 hours in the smoker, but my best salts spend 24 hours  smoking.</p>
<p><strong>2. Use Cool to Medium Heat, and Always Cool Your Salt in  the Smoker<br /> </strong>Heat is tricky, I have made great salts at regular barbecuing  temperatures around 225&deg;but have had better luck when the temperature  is even lower. Some folks I have talked to swear by cold smoking, but in  my experience anywhere from cold smoked at 85&deg; to regular BBQ temps at  225&deg; work well. If however you get a spike in your temperature to  grilling temps - for any length of time you're gonna have to start over -  the higher heats will burn off the smoky resins and leave you with salt  that pretty much tastes like salt. In short - tend your fire. Finally  leave your salt in the smoker until the smoker goes cold. I have 't the  slightest idea why this makes a difference, but it does. Salt cooled in  the smoker has a better aroma and a smoother smoke flavor, sure it takes  longer - but has that ever stopped you before?</p>
<p><strong>3. Soak Your Wood<br /> </strong>This is the only time you will ever hear me suggest soaking  your wood before you smoke with it. Every time I hear someone on TV or  the Web say to soak our wood chips before you put them on your fire it  makes me cringe - soaked wood makes nasty, bitter meat in my opinion.  However when you're smoking salt - <em>and only when you're smoking salt</em> - it seems to work pretty well. Moisture plays a role in Salt smoking  and while I have had some luck with using a pan of boiling water in the  coals, my best luck has been when I soaked my wood. With salt it doesn't  make for a bitter taste. <strong><br /> </strong></p>
<p><strong>4. Use Coarser Salts<br /> </strong>Coarser grain salts smoke better. The smoke can move  through the grains more easily and the smoke seems to stick to the  grains better. I mostly use a grain size I can put in my salt grinder,  it seems to work best.</p>
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<div><em>My first  smoked salt, a hickory smoked Maldon salt I cold smoked in my old  Bradley Electric. The salt lacked the taste and color I was looking for.  Time, humidity and temperature all play a role in making good smoked  salt.</em></div>
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<p><strong>5. Resist the Urge - Smoking Salt when Your Smoking Other  Foods is Not a Good Idea<br /> </strong>Fastest way to mess up your smoked salt? Smoke it with a pork  butt, a slab of ribs, or god forbid a fillet of salmon. Don't do it!  Salt takes up the flavor of cooking meat faster than it does the smoke -  and the effect is not good. If you are thinking "oohhh! bacon salt!"  this isn't the way to do it, trust me. Yuck.</p>
<p><strong>6. Store Your Product in an Air Tight Container<br /> </strong>Finally, when your done, seal the salt in an airtight  container. The smoky flavor you have carefully layered into your salt is  sensitive to oxygen and looses it's tang, smoke flavor and aroma as the  essential oils oxidize and evaporate.. Seal it up tight as soon as it  leaves the smoker. I use big mason jars that folks use for canning.</p>
<p><em>You can find the complete" How-To" I have put together on the <a title="Smoking Salt" href="/index.php/recipes/methods-and-techniques/smoking-salt/">Salt Smoking Discussio</a>n  - including pictures of the rig I am using and the processes that I  have used to make my best salts. And if you have smoked salt - please  consider joining the group and sharing your experiences, recipes, tips  and tricks. </em></p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 31 Mar 2008 23:23:00 -0700</pubDate>
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      <title>Experiments Smoking in Salt</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2006/4/6/experiments-smoking-in-salt/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=480</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p>The first installment of a two part series on smoking salt. See the  link at the bottom of the page to Experiments in Smoking Salt: Part II.  Chilefire also hosts a <a title="Smoking Salt" href="/index.php/recipes/methods-and-techniques/smoking-salt/">Salt Smoking Discusion</a>. Please Join us!</p>
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<div><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/8512/6431/7467/alchemy275.jpg" alt="alchemy275.jpg" width="275" height="355" /><a href="http://www.chilefire.com/images/recipes/Smoked-Salt/alchemy.jpg"><br /><span class="MiniBodyDark">William  Fettes Douglas - The Alchemist </span></a></div>
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<div class="A">The  alchemists believed naturally occurring dew contained the divine salt or  "thoughts of the One Mind". Dew was likened to Gods sweat, so to tease  salt from it would give you quite a condiment indeed.</div>
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<div class="A">My first smoked salt: The  smoke and taste this salt provides is shocking, just a few grains as a  finishing salt has a remarkable<br />impact on flavor.</div>
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<div>2 hours of smoke &amp;  these crystals are beginning to color a slight amber with deep smoke  aroma.</div>
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<p>I am surrounded by wisps of the sweet smoke of orange and  mesquite woods, it is a windy spring night aboard the boat, blustery,  with a slight chill that is unique to spring on the water. Tonight the  smoke from the onboard cooker adds gravity to the evening, seemingly  weighing down the passage of time.</p>
<p>As Spring opens this year I look forward to more nights like  tonight, spending time tending my smokers. In the coming months expect  to see a bit more exploration around here on the fine art of wood  smoking; tonight I am working something I have never tried in the smoker  before,</p>
<p><strong>Salt</strong></p>
<p>Salt is fascinating. Like water, salt is an absolute essential,  without it ultimately we will die; and yet natures only guarantee that  we seek it out is our "taste" for it. Unlike water, food or air, our  bodies do not symptomatically crave it. We go without ever craving it  until we become ill, and ultimately die.</p>
<p>This basic relationship we have with salt has created an  incredible and epic history. Politics, religion, science, human history  is as intimately intertwined with salt as our biology; and culture is  full of hidden references to salt that we take for granted in today's  relatively salt rich world.</p>
<p>Roman soldiers were paid at least partly in salt, it was their salarium,  or 'worth in salt'. The tradition of paying soldiers in salt is not at  all unusual, It is said to be from this that we get the word soldier -  'sal dare', meaning to give salt. In many times and places around the  world salt has been used as currency. In Latin, salt is Sal which is the root for many familiar words, including Salary, Sale, and  even Salvation. The Bible makes a number of references to  salt, and generally held it to be incorruptible - thus a covenant of  salt is one that can not be broken [2 Chronicles 13:5]. <cite>(<a href="http://www.chilefire.com/edit-posting2.asp?Post_ID=82#1">1</a>) </cite>Salt  is strongly symbolic in Judaism and Islam as well and appears equally  in eastern religions.</p>
<p>This is illustrated by a story in the Hindu "Chandogya Upanisad"  which is one of the oldest and largest works of Hindu mystical  teachings. &ldquo;A boy at the age of 12 years left his family to learn from a  school. On returning at the age of 24, the young man's father realized  that his son had learned the scriptures without understanding the nature  of Brahman. He therefore asked his son to sprinkle some salt in a glass  of water. The next day the father asked his son to find the salt in the  water. As the salt had dissolved, the search proved to be futile. The  father asked his son to taste the water from the top, middle and bottom  of the glass and asked him how it had tasted. The son replied salty and  the father asked where is the salt the son replied he could not see the  salt. His father replied that just in the same way you cannot see the  spirit, the Brahman, which encompasses the universe but it is there.  That is the reality, that is the truth and you are that truth&rdquo;.</p>
<p>Salt was used symbolically in a very similar way in the middle  East and West in the traditions of alchemy. Alchemy, in it's most common  and romanticized understanding is of course, the pseudo-science of  "transmutation", of changing of lead into gold. Alchemy however was also  the foundation of what led ultimately to what has become modern Western  science.</p>
<p>The alchemists believed naturally occurring dew contained the  divine salt or "thoughts of the One Mind". Dew was likened to Gods  sweat, so to tease salt from it would give you quite a condiment indeed.</p>
<p><strong>The Art of Smoking Salt </strong></p>
<p>I have scoured the web looking for information on smoking salt  but thus far I have been unable to find anything of interest or utility.  Smoked salts are beginning to appear on shop shelves however, being  offered by 4 or 5 different salt crafter's. Rather than pay the $15.00  an ounce that Whole Foods was asking, I decided to try to make it  myself. What I have come to find is that smoking salt is something of an  art.</p>
<p>While I have many many times cooked with salt, this last week has  been the first time I have cooked salt, and my first experiments have  been of mixed results. My very first try I smoked kosher salt for about  two hours in a hot ( 225&deg; +) smoker, with a pan of water, orange wood  chips following the smoking of a rack of lamb. We didn't try the salt until the next day ,  and when we did, it was amazing! The smoked salt brought a really pure  smoke flavor to whatever it was sprinkled on.</p>
<p>I have spent the last several days trying to reproduce the same  thing again, with significantly less luck. I am not sure what it was  that I did right that first time, but I have been unable to reproduce  the effects, so I am going to get more systematic going forward. I  received neary 7 pounds of salt in the mail today, just over a pound and  a half of Maldon sea salt, and about 5 pounds of Himalayan pink salt. I  am planning on working a series of small batches until I have mastered  it and I will post the results and the methods I find successful here.</p>
<p>My goal is to create a series of finishing salts from different  woods. My first experience with smoked salt suggested that salt is a  unique carrier of the smoke flavor, and I would like to make a set of  jars, each containing a sample of salt from a different wood, hickory  and mesquite are what I am working with until I have a system down;  alder, orange, cherry, lemongrass, and cedar are to follow.</p>
<p>I have several basic experiments I am going to try going forward:</p>
<ul>
<li>Cold smoking a batch of 12 salt samples measuring 1 tablespoon  each for 24 hours, removing one sample every 2 hours to find the best  length of time for smoking without heat. </li>
<li>Hot smoking (without steam pan) a similar batch following the  same procedures as above but at 255&deg;</li>
<li>Hot smoking (with steam pan) and another batch following the  same procedures as above but at 255&deg;</li>
</ul>
<p>This will hopefully send me in a good direction in terms of  time and leaning toward hot or cold smoking. I am adding the with and  without steam pan smokings to try to gauge humidity into my results. I  intuitively believe that water will effect the absorption and taste of  the salt. Salt and water just interact chemically too much for this not  to have an effect - I have no idea which will create a better result.</p>
<p>The other thing I am going to try is an in smoker evaporative  salt forming: boiling a cup of salt into a cup of water, and evaporating  it back to salt crystals inside the smoker. This experiment would take  too long for me to try it it with different techniques very quickly, so I  am going start by tasting the water from the steam pan in my hot  smoking experiment decribed above; marking the quality of the taste of  the water as time passes, and graph when the water becomes too smoky or  bitter. Then I will use the resulting time line to as a starting point  for my evaporative salt forming; removing the smoke when the brine has  reached the best time suggested by the graph.</p>
<p><a href="/index.php/blog/2008/3/31/experiments-smoking-salt-part-ii/">Read  "Experiments Smoking Salt: Part II"</a></p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 06 Apr 2006 23:14:00 -0700</pubDate>
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      <title>Cooking Gadget - The Flexicado Avocado Slicer</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/12/6/cooking-gadget-the-flexicado-avocado-slicer/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=412</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <table class="outline" style="width: 225px;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" align="left">
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<p>The nylon body of the <em>Flexicado&trade; </em>is flexible; one scoop removes most of the flesh from a halved avocado of any size.</p>
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<p>I would love to be able say that I don't fall for gadgets. The thing is I do, and in general I end up not liking them. I have basically never found a "handheld" to be of any use at all. I just don't pick it up, they have a terrible interface,and are just not pleasing to use. ick. Thing is, I own two of them.</p>
<p>In my kitchen, I don't actually have all that many gadgets. A few, that work, I do keep handy. For instance, I love my silicone spatula that I can stick in a fire and scoop out molten lead with (ok, but almost!). I like my fancy lemon zester, my bread machine, and... I do have a waffle iron. After that, its all woks and pans and knives, the essentials.</p>
<p>The      <em><a href="http://www.chefn.com/products/gadgets/flexicado.html">Flexicado&trade;</a> </em>is a gadget. No question. but is it a nice one? like my ginger grater, or a another piece of junk, Like... every pepper grinder I have ever owned. After my first two uses, I think it might actually be a keeper. I picked it up after reading a review that mentioned in a magazine, and I thought - "I have to have one of those!" A trip to Sur La Table and $5.20 cents later I had one.</p>
<p>$5.20. That's a great price. I thought well, if this thing is junk, at least it isn't Krups junk. It's more like fru fru fancy overindulgent coffee drink junk. So I went straight to Harris Teeter and picked out 2 miracle perfect avocados.</p>
<p>Last night I used it the first time. The body of the <em><a href="http://www.chefn.com/products/gadgets/flexicado.html">Flexicado&trade;</a> </em>is made from flexible nylon, so that it can change size to help follow out the shape of the avocado; this is about 85% effective and on smaller avocados it works fairly well. On larger avocados you may need to make a second pass.</p>
<p>IF you are a big avocado fan the <em><a href="http://www.chefn.com/products/gadgets/flexicado.html">Flexicado&trade;</a> </em>is pretty cool. For salads and       <a href="http://www.chilefire.com/recipe-display.asp?Recipe_ID=1">Guacamole</a> this will save you time. The slices are a bit rough around the edges, though I imagine that I will get better at using it. I do fear that the nylon is going to get dull but I will have to see how it stands up to use.</p>
<p>First Impression: Good, though pretty function specific. Materials are a little lighter that they could be (thinking stainless spring steel and wire...) works pretty well, and has a low space impact. Probably floats (important on a boat), and looks pretty cool. I think I will probably use it until it gets dull, won't throw it away for too long, and then won't get another one.</p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 06 Dec 2005 15:10:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>A Fiery Quest! (Part 2 of 2) Chimayo Chile Powders #1 and #2 from The Santa Fe School of Cooking </title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2010/1/16/a-fiery-quest-part-2-of-2-chimayo-chile-powders-1-and-2-from-the/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=409</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p>I received the last order of chile powder in the mail yesterday before I went to work. I have decided that to introduce the first two of the chile powders today: Hot and mild Chimay&oacute; Chile Powders from The Santa Fe School of Cooking</p>
<p>So I am starting with the Santa Fe School of Cooking powders because they come in stainless steel resealable tins. Really it is more like a small paint can, but it's nice. I have been ordering this chile powder from the school's store for 2 years now, and each time I finish a can it is months before I can bring myself to toss out the tin. The tins are really nice.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/6712/6351/6414/SFSOC-Mild.jpg" alt="SFSOC-Mild.jpg" width="275" height="338" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 03 Dec 2005 14:55:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>DC Local Hot Saucer Takes 4 Awards at 2006 Scovies</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/11/28/dc-local-hot-saucer-takes-4-awards-at-2006-scovies/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=407</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p style="text-align: left;">Brennan G. Proctor (a.k.a. Uncle Brutha) sells his hot sauces in person at <a href="http://www.easternmarket.net/">Eastern Market</a> on the weekends. I have been picking up the occasional bottle over the last year on the weekends I that I am lucky enough to have the time to go by the market. I haven't been lucky enough to have his Chile Verde sauce yet but the next time that I hit the market I am certainly going to pick one up. You can also pick up Uncle Brutha sauces at his website, <a href="http://unclebrutha.com/">http://unclebrutha.com</a>.</p>
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      <pubDate>Mon, 28 Nov 2005 17:08:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>A Fiery Quest! (Part 1 of 2) Finding the Best Chimayó Chile The Web Can Provide</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/11/26/a-fiery-quest-part-1-of-4-finding-the-best-chimay-chile-the-web/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=405</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p>Throughout the country, you will find all kinds of chile peppers. Texans boast their citrus-hot jalape&ntilde;os and squat poblanos. In Louisiana, cayenne and tabasco peppers are the chiles of choice. Cooks in Miami have fallen in love with the fiery habanero, and in California, the chiles selected are most often pasillas, fresnos, and California chiles. But in New Mexico, there is only one chile of any real importance, The New Mexico chile. The New Mexico chile comes in both fresh and dried varieties and depending on when they are picked are served either red or green.</p>
<p align="left">The New Mexico chile comes in many different varieties. The most popular mild pepper is the NuMex conquistador, which is great for chiles rellenos. The NuMex sweet variety is used like a bell or anaheim pepper, as it has little or no heat at all. The NuMex Joe E. Parker is a medium-hot pepper that is excellent for salsas. And for the serious chileheads, there's the Sandia, a very hot southern variety, that is used in many green chiles that you will find throughout New Mexico.</p>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2005 16:53:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>Brisket, Smoked Chicken Chile and Good Company.</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/11/21/brisket-smoked-chicken-chile-and-good-company/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=84</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p><img style="float: left;" src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/6912/6215/4158/smoked-chicken-chile.jpg" alt="smoked-chicken-chile.jpg" width="275" height="317" />This week we had our first whole weekend back on our boat since we had it put back in the water last week. After 6 weeks living away from our floating home I was ready to do some cooking.<br /><br />I finished setting up my smokers on the dock in front of my boat and started them up. In the galley I had a brisket soaking in a quick rub I put together, two chickens and a mess of poblano chiles waiting.<br /><br />In our time out of the water I had worked up the recipe that follows this posting for a smoked chile - and man did it turn out! Naomi and I had a couple of friends over for the results; Slow Cooked Brisket with homemade Mango Habenero Barbecue Sauce, bowls of Smoked Chicken and Pablano Chile and a mess of Green Chile Cornbread. By the end of the day the smoker had let all of our neighbors know we were home.</p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 21 Nov 2005 22:20:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>Los Chilernos Chipotle Powder - All the Flavor Without the Vinegar</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/11/20/los-chilernos-chipotle-powder-all-the-flavor-without-the-vinegar/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=82</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p>&nbsp;</p>
<p align="left"><img style="float: left;" src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/8912/6215/3374/los-chileros-chipotle-powde.jpg" alt="los-chileros-chipotle-powde.jpg" width="200" height="337" />My father has loved Tabasco Sauce for years, and for almost as long I have been trying to convince him that while there is a place for Tabasco - it isn't on everything you want hot; because when you add Tabasco you also add a lot of vinegar, and in my opinion at least, scrambled eggs just aren't any better with vinegar on them - even if it is spicy vinegar.</p>
<p align="left">Recently though my father switched from regular Tabasco to Chipotle Tabasco (which isn't really Tabasco anymore now is it?) In the last 2 or 3 years chipotle chiles have become very popular. A restaurant chain carries the name, and endless products containing some variation of the smoked chile have been put on the market, from sauces to mustards. When my father switched from regular Tabasco to Chipotle Tabasco - I saw my chance to introduce Los Chilernos Chipotle powder as an alternative to his vinegar habit.</p>
<p align="left">I have tried a couple of chipotle powders and so far this is the best I have found (though the search continues!) Los Chilernos advertises itself as providing the ingredients for "gourmet" southwestern cuisine and in terms of chile powder so far as I have tried, they do sell a high grade set of products.</p>
<p align="left">This powder is great stuff. The smoke is right up front, it has a sweet smell but the taste is all chile and wood. It is great sprinkled on salads, mixed with a bit of olive oil and used as a bread dip or added to soups and stews to add both heat and a great smoky quality. This chile powder is pretty hot and carries its flavor along way with just a touch, so use it carefully at first until you figure out how much you like.</p>
<p align="left">I had my parents over for dinner on our boat and served a ceasars salad with a light dusting of this chile powder over the top, and ended up sending them home with an extra bottle. My dad still hasn't given up on Tabasco Sauce, but he is mixing it up now with this great powder. I totally recomend it. You can find Los Chilernos chile products at Whole Foods Markets, but more often that not they they don't carry the powder in this shaker bottle - the powder is the same either way but the shaker is a nice way of serving it up. You can order it online at <a href="http://www.888eatchile.com/">http://www.888eatchile.com</a> for about $6.00 a bottle or a 3 pack for about $17.00.</p>
<p align="left">Next Chipotle Powder? <a href="http://www.chiletoday.com/">Chile Today-Hot Tamale</a> Chipotle Powder.</p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 20 Nov 2005 22:13:00 -0800</pubDate>
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      <title>Deer Brand Red Chillies (Chiles)</title>
      <link>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php/blog/2005/11/17/deer-brand-red-chillies-chiles/</link>
      <guid>http://theroguegourmet.com/index.php?cID=78</guid>
      <description><![CDATA[ <p><img style="float: left;" src="http://theroguegourmet.com/files/7812/6215/1581/Deer-Brand-Red-Chiles.jpg" alt="Deer-Brand-Red-Chiles.jpg" width="250" height="362" />I ran into this plastic tub of "red chillies" at a local Pakistani food store in Falls Church. I couldn't help picking it up for two reasons. The first was the price! At 1.99 I didn't think I could go wrong and I had never seen these little peppers before and I just had to try them out.<br /><br />I am not at all sure what kind of chile these little guys are, they are a bit smaller and much brighter in color than Hungarian cherry peppers or cascabel peppers. I would guess that they are related to cascabel though only about a third the size, and about twice the bite. These little chiles like Hungarian cherry peppers are loaded with seeds. Bright red , smooth, and round in shape, measuring about &frac12; an inch in diameter. medium fleshed and pretty hot, with a sweet fruit/raisin quality. Low in tannins, The flavors are a little smoky sweet, rather like a riesling grape. The heat is first noticeable at the back of the throat, but hangs on around the front of the mouth and lips. Great for sauces, soups, and stews, and might make a great powder if you have the patience to seed them - I don't.<br /><br />I will definitely be back for more of these. They are perfect for bringing up the heat in any number of chile dishes and grind really easily, just drop them into your grinder and give them a spin - just 3 or 4 of these will add a noticeable note of heat in any</p> ]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:36:00 -0800</pubDate>
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